А вот что в Чилтоне (предусмотрена ручная и под давлением прокачка) привожу ручную:
MANUAL BLEEDING
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure
will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding
procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the
brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
In addition to a length of clear neoprene bleeder hose, bleeder wrenches and a clear bleeder bottle (old plastic jar or
drink bottle will suffice), bleeding late-model ABS systems may also require the use of one or more relatively
inexpensive combination valve pressure bleeding tools (which are used to depress one or more valves in order to
allow component/system bleeding). To fully bleed the late model ABS systems, a scan tool should also be used to run
the system through functional tests.
1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid. To prevent
squirting fluid, and possibly damaging painted surfaces, install the cover during the procedure, but be sure to
frequently check and top off the reservoirs with fresh fluid.
Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the system.
2. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed
and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the
master cylinder as follows:
- 1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it
will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
- 2. Loosen the front brake line at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front
port.
- 3. Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly and hold (air and/or fluid should be expelled
from the loose fitting). Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds.
Loosen the fitting and repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder bore.
- 4. When finished, tighten the line fitting to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
- 5. Repeat the sequence at the master cylinder rear pipe fitting.
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During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake
pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn
back into the system.
3. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir.
Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the
bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
4. On late model ABS equipped vehicles, perform the special ABS procedures as described later in this
section. On 4 wheel ABS systems the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) must be bled (if it has been
replaced or if it is suspected to contain air) and on most Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) systems the
combination valve must be held open. In both cases, special combination valve depressor tools should be
used during bleeding and a scan tool must be used for ABS function tests.
Position a bleeder wrench over the wheel cylinder bleeder screw (rear wheels)
Attach a clear plastic hose to the screw and submerge the other end in a transparent container of
clean brake fluid
5. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s)
affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel
cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
- 1. Right rear
- 2. Left rear
- 3. Right front
- 4. Left front
6. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
- 1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the
screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with
brake fluid.
Be very careful when bleeding wheel cylinders and brake calipers. The bleeder
screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. Installing a new
bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul
or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper. To help prevent the possibility of
breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to
loosen it.
- 2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
- 3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have a friend apply the brake pedal slowly and hold. Tighten
the bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds.
Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second pause) until all air is expelled from the caliper
or cylinder.
- 4. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) when finished.
Bleeder screws are protected by a rubber cap (caliper screw shown) which keeps dirt and moisture
away from the system
It's usually helpful to attach the bleeder bottle to the frame using an old coat hanger
7. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding
procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
8. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go
Copyright 2005 Thomson Delmar Learning. All rights reserved.
out.
9. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.
